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Photo coming: a cracked or sunken driveway section before repair (Fort Wayne job)

Real local photo, 1600 × 1067 px

Repair or replace: a quick guide

Start with what you can see. This table matches common driveway problems to what they usually mean. A contractor’s visit is the only way to confirm it.

Common concrete driveway problems and the usual fix
What you seeWhat it usually meansUsual direction
Thin, stable cracks (about 1/8 inch)Normal shrinkage as the concrete driedRepair: clean and fill the cracks
Cracks up to 1/4 inch, not growingShrinkage, or minor movementRepair: filler or patching compound
Cracks over 1/2 inch, or one side higherBase settlement or structural movementLift the slab, or replace and fix the base
One section sunk but in one piecePoorly compacted fill or washed-out soil underneathRepair: slabjacking may raise it
Sections pushed up in winterFrost heave from water freezing under the slabFix drainage; replace if it won’t settle back
Light surface scalingSalt and freeze-thaw on a weak top layerRepair: patch, then seal
Widespread spalling or many broken panelsSurface or slab has failedReplace
Water pools on the slabWrong slope or settled sectionsOften replace; sometimes lift

Based on (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026), (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026), (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026), and (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026).

Age matters too. A properly built and maintained concrete driveway should last 30 years or more (Concrete Network). A driveway at or past that age with several of these problems is usually a replacement.

Common problems and what causes them

Cracking

Most cracks start as shrinkage while the concrete dries, and too much water in the mix or poor curing makes them worse (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026). Control joints are there to make the slab crack in straight lines where you want it to. Cracks that wander between joints can mean the joints were spaced too far apart or cut too shallow for the slab thickness (Illinois Ready Mixed Concrete Association). Hairline cracks are mostly cosmetic, but water freezing in them each winter slowly opens them wider.

Settling and sinking

When a slab drops, look underneath. The usual cause is a poorly compacted subgrade or soil erosion (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026). Point out anything that sends water under the slab, like a downspout emptying beside it, and any old trench that was backfilled across the driveway.

Heaving

When groundwater under a slab freezes, it expands upward and can lift whole sections, cracking them apart (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026). Heaving is a drainage and base problem more than a concrete problem. Any repair or replacement should deal with where the water goes.

Scaling and spalling

Flaking, pitted surfaces are the classic Fort Wayne-winter driveway problem. Deicing salts make freeze-thaw damage worse, and the damage is often traced back to finishing, too much water in the mix, poor curing, or not enough entrained air in the original pour (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026) (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026). Salt dripping off cars in the garage approach is a common source even if you never salt the driveway yourself.

Sunken slabs: concrete leveling vs. replacement

If a section of driveway has dropped but is still in one piece, it can sometimes be raised back to its original position instead of being torn out (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026). That’s called concrete leveling, slab lifting, slabjacking, or mudjacking.

Mudjacking and foam leveling

Both methods lift the slab by pumping material underneath it. Mudjacking uses a grout mixture, typically water, portland cement, bentonite or fly ash, and sand. Foam leveling injects foam instead (Concrete Network, accessed Oct 2026). The same source puts the cost at less than half, and elsewhere about a third, of replacing the slab (Concrete Network).

When leveling fits, and when it doesn’t

  • Usually a good fit: one or a few panels have sunk, they’re still intact, and the cause (a downspout, washed-out fill) can be fixed so it doesn’t happen again.
  • Usually not: settling is severe, or the slab is broken into pieces. Settlement cracks generally mean removing the concrete and stabilizing the soil (Concrete Network), and with severe settling, replacing the driveway and correcting the subgrade may be the only lasting fix (Concrete Network).
  • Heaved rather than sunk: lifting won’t help a slab that frost pushed up. Deal with the water under it first (see heaving above).

When you get estimates, ask each contractor whether they do leveling themselves, why they’re recommending lifting or replacing, and what they’ll do about the cause.

Not sure if your driveway can be saved?

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How driveway replacement works

  1. Tear-out. The old slab is broken up and hauled away. Nationally this runs about $2 to $6 per square foot (Angi, accessed Oct 2026).
  2. Fix the cause. Soft or washed-out soil is dug out and replaced with compacted crushed stone; grading and downspouts are corrected so water drains away (Illinois Ready Mixed Concrete Association, accessed Oct 2026).
  3. Forms, reinforcement, and pour. Built to the same specs as a new driveway: at least 4 inches thick, air-entrained 4,500 psi concrete, and joints 8 to 10 feet apart on a 4-inch slab (Illinois Ready Mixed Concrete Association, accessed Oct 2026).
  4. The approach. In Fort Wayne, replacing the section that connects to a public street needs a city access permit and a pre-pour inspection (City of Fort Wayne, accessed Oct 2026). See driveway permits and licensing.
  5. Cure, then drive. About 7 days before cars go back on it (Illinois Ready Mixed Concrete Association, accessed Oct 2026).

Partial replacement

If the damage is limited to a few panels, replacing just those sections can make sense. Expect the new concrete to look a little different in color from the old (Concrete Network).

For full specs, see concrete driveway installation in Fort Wayne. For price ranges, see the driveway cost guide.

Sealing and maintenance

A driveway that’s maintained lasts longer between repairs. In a salt-and-snow climate, the basics are:

Driveway repair questions

Can a cracked concrete driveway be repaired?

Usually, if the cracks are narrow and the slab isn’t moving. Thin cracks around 1/8 inch can often just be filled (Concrete Network), and fillers work for cracks up to about 1/4 inch (Concrete Network). Expect filled cracks to stay visible and need redoing later. Wide cracks with one side higher are a different problem.

Why is the surface of my driveway flaking off?

That’s scaling or spalling. It’s most often caused by deicing salts combined with freeze-thaw cycles, often in concrete that was overworked when finished, had too much water in the mix, wasn’t cured properly, or lacked enough entrained air (Concrete Network) (Concrete Network). Light scaling can be patched; widespread spalling usually means replacement.

Can a sunken driveway slab be raised instead of replaced?

Often, yes. Slabjacking (also called mudjacking) pumps grout or foam under the slab to lift it back to level (Concrete Network). It works best when a section has settled but is still in one piece. If the slab is badly cracked or the soil is still moving, replacement with a corrected base may be the only lasting fix.

Can new concrete be poured over an old driveway?

A thin resurfacing overlay can renew a worn but solid driveway. It should never go over a driveway that’s severely cracked or damaged (Concrete Network), because the old cracks and movement come right back through. Pouring a full new slab on top of the old one also raises the height at the garage and street.

Is it cheaper to repair or replace a concrete driveway?

Repair is cheaper up front. National figures put driveway repairs at $3 to $25 per square foot versus $8 to $20 per square foot to replace (Angi), and replacement adds $2 to $6 per square foot to remove the old slab (Angi). Repeated repairs on a failing slab can cost more over time.

Get a written estimate from a local contractor

Tell us about your project in Fort Wayne or Allen County. We’ll work to match you with a local contractor and let you know either way. Estimates are free, and you’re never obligated to hire anyone.